Friday, November 4, 2011

let me paint you a picture

It's November. This month I'll be leaving Nicaragua. Once again I'm struck by how so many things have become "normal" to me here -- things that are far from the normal that I used to know and will return to very shortly.

I thought I would try to describe what I experience on a "normal" walk to work.

I leave a little after 8:00 each morning. The streets are very lively at this hour. As I leave my house, I see maids sweeping front steps and men cutting the grass with long knives. Right next door is a car repair shop which means there are almost always gawking men when I walk past: a good opportunity to practice acting nonchalant and composed.

A little ways down is a house where little kids are always playing oustide. Often they'll run up to the fence and say "Adios!" to me (In this case "adios" means both hello and goodbye....it's like a catch-all greeting.) When I respond they giggle shyly.

The sidewalks here leave a little bit to be desired. I'm starting to learn where the major cracks and holes are so that when I'm walking in the dark I don't have problems.

I pass a pulperia (corner store)that I frequent on occassion to purchase water, coca-cola, and to recharge my phone minutes.

Then I get to the main street. This street is jam packed with every mode of transportation that you can imagine. It's a one-way street but apparently these rules don't apply to bicycles, motorcycles, and horse-drawn buggies so it's still necessary to look both ways (carefully!) before crossing the street.

Many people here ride "Nica style" which is 3+ people on one bike or motorcycle. At a very young age (basically infants) people must learn incredible balance.

Taxis honk to signal their availability. Other vehicles honk to indicate that they're coming through. Busses pass with the guy hanging out the door yelling their destination. People whistle for various reasons: to get someone's attention, to say hello, a "piropo" or compliment for a girl.

People pushing (or pulling) carts carry loads of firewood or fruit to sell. There are also men pushing ice-cream carts, ringing bells to let everyone know they're selling ice-cream.

Something that I find fascinating are these bike/cart hybrids that consist of the back half of a bike. The front half has two wheels instead of one and a cart in the front for hauling various items.

I cross a bridge over a big gutter of sorts where run-off from area houses flows past. When it rains these "cauces" become more like raging streams. There are signs everywhere that say "Don't throw garbage" but there is trash everywhere, especially in the "stream."

On the other side of the bridge, there is a lady selling baked items. She is constantly fanning her basket of goods to keep the flies away.

I pass two schools - one for little kids (preschool and kindergarden age) and the other for middle school aged kids. Both are somewhat difficult to walk past when the students are just getting let out for lunch or at the end of the day - people everywhere. There used to be a group of 14-year-old boys that would give me a hard time when I walked past but I think they've grown tired of not getting a response from me so I now pass without any problems.

Past the school there is a beautiful view with palm trees and the Volcano in the background. Once again, this is something that will not be normal when I'm back in Minnesota.

Then there are a few "Variedades" stores selling clothes usually modeled on several manikins outside the shop. Across the street is a huge lumber store.

Many of the houses at this point also sell food or beverages. People stop in to buy drinks served in plastic bags with straws.

There are also many venders in the streets selling things like fruit, water, and baked goods. They either have carts or baskets that they carry on their shoulder or head. They yell what they're selling as they pass.

Often there are people sitting outside of their houses on plastic chairs, taking in the activity of the day. Since the side-walks are narrow this often means that you have to walk in the street to avoid walking right through a group of people.

Another obstacle is the dogs. There are dogs EVERYWHERE. Most of them don't scare me and will get out of my way. But every once in a while I'll cross the street to avoid a dog that looks particularly "bravo" (fierce). It's also necessary to look out for sleeping dogs on the sidewalks. The other day I almost stepped on one. I'm sure he also would have been bravo if that had happened.

I arrive at ALTERNATIVA and wait for the guard to let me in. If our main guard is gone and there's a substitute guard, he is usually very skeptical of me and I have to try and convince him that I work there and that he should let me in. Who knew that I could be such a suspicious looking person.

All in a normal day.

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